Day 12: Hugh Gorge to Birthday Waterhole 17/08/2020

We left Alice Springs around 7am after a surprisingly delicious breakfast of avocado toast and mushrooms at the motel. It was half an hour back to the 4WD track and 50 minutes along a very rough track to get back to Hugh Gorge. We got back to the hikers camp and set off around 9am, with Jubbie coming along for the walk through the gorge. It was a never ending gorge and I felt like I might have spent the rest of my life walking through it!  Jubble turned around at what would end up being about the half way mark. All up I think it went for 4kms and took an hour twenty. It was rocky underfoot but no scrambling required,  just crossing from one side of the “creek” to the other to find the easiest path.

From there the path started switchbacking up quite steeply and then levelled out as it made its way along a huge valley and then climbed up to Rocky Saddle.  It was great being able to look back all the way along the valley I’d just walked through.

From Rocky Saddle the trail switchbacked down the other side and along another valley with Razorback Mountain as the ultimate view and destination. At the end of the valley was Fringe Lily Creek. I came across a couple of guys who’ve been staying at the hikers camps with Sim and Kyle. One had terrible blisters and was wondering if he could go on. I gave him some tape and some caramel Snackables and continued on my way. Later in the day I was happy to see them turn up at the hikers camp. 

The trail was fairly easy going until about the 8km to go mark and for the next 3km was tough.  After Fringe Lily Creek the trail switchbacked up very steeply heading towards Razokback.  Then it got super rocky and scrambly and clambery. It was feet and hands climbing in sections and my legs definitely got a work out. It’s funny to me how you climb up jagged rocky mountains,  reach the ridge and then go for a nice bush walk along a fairly smooth path along the ridge!  This mountain kept climbing and it was not always easy to follow the path. At one point I ended up on what seemed like a fairly precarious rocky section looking straight down and thinking this can’t be the official path!. And no, it was not. A bit of backtracking and I climbed up the other side of the razory rocks at the very top of the ridge.

It was super windy at the summit so I didn’t hang around too long.  The trail switchbacked steeply down to Windy Saddle (not a misnomer) and then climbed down into a rocky,  bouldery gully. Perfect time and place for lunch. I stopped under the shade of a tree right at the top of the gully. It was a fairly steep climb down through that gully and I was feeling thankful I wasn’t going the other way. It involved hands and feet to climb down the rocks and again, legs and ankles really knew they were involved.

From that gully the trail turned into Spencer Gorge and like its mate at the start of the day, it was a long one. Unlike Hugh Gorge, this one had big boulders and involved a lot of clambering and scrambling and sliding down from high rocks on my bum. It was pretty tiring, especially after Razorback. I was happy to see the end and equally unhappy to realise the trail climbed up out of the gorge! Thankfully the climb wasn’t too high and it was a fairly gentle wander for the last 2kms to the hikers camp. I had a long chat with Sim and Kyle before moving on to Birthday Waterhole and Camp Jubbie. Birthday Waterhole was a complete misnomer – should have been called Sand Hole. The marks on the rocks showed how high the water does go though and it would be pretty impressive. Apparently there’s a sign saying if it starts raining heavily you need to be prepared to leave the area quickly because it’s renowned for flash flooding.

Jubbie excelled himself with his camp setup. Great tarp off the back of the car, tent set up on a sandy bed in the river. I walked back to the hikers camp and invited Sim and Kyle for dinner. Apparently Kyle has been talking about and dreaming of food because they haven’t had enough (they miscalculated the number of days) and it must have been nice for him going off to sleep on a full stomach – Chef Jublé certainly doesn’t under cater! We chatted until dark and they headed back to their camp. It was a really warm night and we went off to sleep with the doors on our tent open looking up at the stars.

3 thoughts on “Day 12: Hugh Gorge to Birthday Waterhole 17/08/2020

  1. Holy moly my legs are feeling tired too after reading this day’s trail of climbing and clambering and more climbing. I felt for the hiker with the blisters luckily you had some extra strapping etc to help him out.
    Love the pic of the waterhole, and so many more colourful flowers out in bloom.
    Sounds like you’re meeting some lovely people on the way and I’m sure you’ll keep in touch after the trip.

    I was going to ask about the markings on the trail but I think you’ve already answered that when I read about you reaching a rocky edge, wrong way go back! You’re brave for walking on your own, sometimes a second opinion is good when you’re negotiating tricky terrain. But you’ve got Paul waiting at the other end which is great and must be a relief.

    I really want to do this trail!! I must plan ahead in time for the borders opening up for melbournians.
    Cheers

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    1. I couldn’t recommend this hike more. It’s remote but accessible and well marked and the trail is clear while also blending into the environment. You meet so many friendly people along the way and everyone loves being out there. Definitely make sure you’re backpack fit so you enjoy it right from the beginning. There are lots of options – you can do self supported or partially assisted or fully supported as part of a group x

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      1. Thanks for the thumbs up! Totally agree, have to be backpack fit and strengthen my legs! Also I must season my city-dwelling feet for my hiking boots.

        You inspired me with Jubbie‘s Anzac biscuits so I made a batch today although mine aren’t vegan.
        Just perfect to enjoy on a lazy Saturday afternoon while it’s raining and hailing, quite the opposite to the Larapinta trail.
        Cheers

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