Day 10: Serpentine Gorge to Ellery Creek 15/08/2020

We packed up camp and left Ormiston Gorge this morning. At Serpentine Gorge Jubble and I went and checked out the gorge and the lookout. Apparently the aboriginals were scared of this waterhole and never swam in it nor do they allow others to swim in it. Deep in the gorge beyond the waterhole we saw more of those relict palm trees amid the lush greenery.

At the hikers camp we parted company and I headed off on what was supposed to be a fairly easy 14km walk to Ellery Creek. Today was all open, vast, expansive views, totally different from other days. The path travelled through open, burnt out country, with a few steepish hills. At about the 4km mark there was a choice – left to continue to the section 6/7 trailhead or right to go to Ellery Creek Big Hole Carpark. I took the path to the left and didn’t think much of it.  You can tell this is going to be important to the story later.

After some more undulating hills, the trail went through a rocky gully with definite clambering required. It was a bit too early for lunch so I decided to continue until I found the next shady spot. They were very few and far between. About half an hour later I came across a small tree shading the path but with nowhere really to sit, so I carried on. I eventually came across another tree throwing shade onto the path so I stopped there and sat on the path for lunch.

Today’s colours were orangy-brown, green and blue. Rocks, spinifex and trees and the sky. The ground was vertical shards of rock that had once been flat until extreme pressure pushed them up. The ground was really hard under foot.

I arrived at Ellery Creek and instead of turning left to go to the hikers camp, I turned right to go through what I assumed would be a cut through to the other side of the mountain range and my Jubble waiting at his camp. There was indeed a cut through, but the waterhole filled it entirely. There was no way through other than swimming the ice cold water! I couldn’t believe it. I knew they had re-routed the track at that section but didn’t realise you couldn’t get through from one side of the range to the other. All I could think was that I was going to have to walk back 9kms to take the other turn off I’d seen. While standing there I heard a lady across on the other side telling her friend she wondered how we got to our side. Good question, I wondered the exact same thing! Luckily I came across a guy set up in his tent in a sandy patch under some trees who knew how to get around to the other side. I could continue 3kms further along to a junction and then cut through the next “gate” (high saddle) in the range and then double back to Ellery Creek on the other side of the range – all up about 7km. Done! I had been so convinced my only option was 9km back the way I’d come and another 9km on the other path that 7km sounded perfect.

I stopped in at the hikers camp on my way through and had a chat with Sim, Kyle, Kate and Sreve. They were super relaxed just chilling on the tent pads. They’d been for a swim and were enjoying the relatively short hiking day. After leaving them I couldn’t find the track out, so after a couple of futile attempts, I went back and enlisted their help. I’m sure they all really appreciated having to put their shoes back on for me! It didn’t take long to find the trail and I was off again. I zoomed along to the junction, super motivated to get the walk done for the day. Even though in total it would only be about 20km, there is something that does your head in when you unexpectedly end up having to go further than you’d panned.

When the trail came parallel to the next saddle, a sign pointed me towards it and 4.8km to Ellery Creek Big Hole. The climb up to the gate was steep and rocky, but luckily not super high. After passing through the rest of the walk was on nicely undulating terrain and easy to walk. I was however walking straight into the late afternoon sun. It was a great re-enforecement that I’d made the right choice to walk the trail west to east rather than the other way around. Maybe if you were someone who got up super early and finished walking early afternoon, east to west would be a good option. But for me who regularly finishes late afternoon, it would be brutal.

After arriving at Camp Jubbie I went and checked out the other side of the waterhole. It’s really lovely and still unpassable. Chef Jublé made a delicious chickpea and tofu curry that was so good I ate it all before I had a chance to take a photo! I got ready for tomorrow’s hike – it’s an early start because the hike is more than 30km to the next car accessible trailhead, so I need to be gone early. And then it was time for bed.