Day 5: Redbank Gorge to Finke River 10/08/2020

I was off by 8:30 this morning, ready for a big day. This morning’s walk ran parallel to Mt Sonder, along the base.  It was fantastic walking along below the track we’d climbed up the day before.  I stopped in at the hikers camp to check it out. It was in a nice secluded area 200m off the track. It had big shelters with tent pads. I think alot of people just put their sleeping bags on the pads if it’s not too cold. There was a couple packing up to leave on the same route as me.   It’s amazing that anything can grow in this rocky,  arid environment. The track crosses loads of creeks,  at this time all bone (stone?) dry.  It would be amazing to see this place after decent rain.

The track makes its way to Rocky Bar Gap, a hikers only campsite. There’s water and toilets and spots for a few tents.  It would be a lovely spot to stop.  From there, the track becomes rocky as it makes its way through the gap in the ranges. Once you’re through the gap, you look up at the summit of Mt Sonder and the ranges kind of wrap around you. It’s pretty fantastic looking up at the place we looked down from when we were up there looking towards Alice Springs.

From there the walk is mostly flat as you head towards Hilltop Lookout. There is evidence of what I assume were the 2019 bushfires.  I stopped for lunch in a dry creek bed with a bit of shade before starting the climb to Hilltop Lookout.
The climb was a series of switchbacks up the steep side of the hill. The ground was super rocky and it was hot in the full midday sun.  I definitely wouldn’t want to walk this track in much hotter weather. Today was only 27 degrees and I felt it!

The view from Hilltop Lookout was as amazing as you’d imagine. Back to the west was Mt Sonder, off to the south the fantastic humpy section of the MacDonnell Ranges on the other side of Larapinta Drive, to the east the ranges I’m about to walk along and to the north more ranges.   There were a few spots to camp up there and evidence of some camp fires.

The track crossed a saddle before switchbacking down the other side towards Finke River.

The trail flattened out again at the bottom before coming to a beautiful and completely unexpected waterhole. It was the first water I’ve seen on the trail so far aside from Redbank Gorge. The couple I met at the hikers camp this mornimg passed me while I was stopped for lunch. I caught up with them again at the waterhole and we stopped for a chat. They were caught up in the Brisbane hotspot issue like we were. They’d stopped at a supermarket in Ipswich one day and so then had to kill two weeks before crossing into NT. Their time killing unfortunately didn’t include Noosa and Fraser Island. They spent extra time in Longreach and Mount Isa!  The delay means they won’t be able to hike the whole trail,  they’ll only have 10 days to hike. Another reminder of how lucky l am!

Jubbie met me not long after and we walked home together. We walked through the most arid landscape of the day. By that stage my feet had started to hurt and it was a bit of a slog to finish. My trail runners are much more comfortable than my hiking boots. I’d decided to wear my boots because I thought my trail runners would get worn out super quickly on this rocky ground. I’ll switch back to runners from now on though. I was counting the steps to get back to the car. I was also dreaming of powerade and a snack!

Jubble had set up camp at Ormiston Gorge campsite where there are toilets and a shower. It was only a 10 minute drive from today’s end point to the camp – perfect! The campground was packed, so lucky Jubble had set up our tent earlier. We wouldn’t have got a space at the time we arrived after my walk.  I felt pretty exhausted.  Need to build back up the alps hiking fitness!

Chef Jublé made a delicious spicy veggie and rice soup.