Day 4: Pockets Hut to Ghost Gully Campground 1/12/19

What an amazing night. I left my fly open all night and even though it was cold (my water bottle had icicles in it!) it was worth it. I heard brumbies brrrrrrrrring to each other through the night and walking around. Still not having seen one yet, that was pretty exciting. I could also see the stars from my nest. It was a clear night and so beautiful. How many people get the chance to do what I’m doing? So grateful. Again, l was aware of being awake alot but I think my body benefited from lying down for almost eleven hours. I woke as the sun came above the mountains around 6am and was super stoked to get my first brumby sighting as l disturbed three of them having breakie behind the hut. It took me a couple of hours to get packed up and away – some room for camp efficiency improvements. While I was packing up l could see a group of bunnies running in and out of their burrow. I said goodbye to my skull friend and left Pockets Hut by 8am.

Today was a day of plains. And wind. Cold wind. As l started across a plain, three brumbies saw me from quite a way away and ran off. Clearly I’m terrifying even at a distance. Another big group (maybe 16 in total) watched me carefully before deciding they too needed to run. The mob split in two with a mum, her baby and two others going one way (the direction l was walking in unfortunately for them) and the rest the other way. The four carefully thought out their escape options before deciding to high tail it for the tree line. Some of the others turned to follow them and it was lovely hearing the two groups calling to each other to find their way back together. Then l heard a howl and froze in my tracks. In my research I’d read about a savage group of wild dogs that attacked a man (admittedly he did have a dog with him that may have been the attraction), and was sure that was coming next. My snake stick instantly turned into a wild dog stick. Oh no, in all my research l hadn’t learned the theory of using a wild dog stick! The dog came trotting out of the bush closest to me. It wasn’t super close and luckily l was down wind of it. It trotted along with its tail up and wagging for awhile before disappearing back into the bush again. I knew that either it hadn’t seen me or it was wily and going to stalk me along the edge of the bush before chasing me down and ripping my throat out. I walked along keeping very close eye out and regularly checking behind in case l was being stalked. Luckily, no. I did come across another dog shortly after who, as soon as it saw me ran in the other direction across the plains. Exactly the reaction l want to see in my wild dogs! The wild dog stick turned back into a snake stick later in the day when l almost stepped on a blue tongue lizard sun baking on the path. Great reminder that I’d accidentally forgotten my snake paranoia of the past few days!

Today was such different landscape to anything I’ve walked so far. I stopped at Mosquito Creek to top up my water, quite a feat in the face of the strong wind blowing across the plain. It’s really bizarre that at the end of the plain the landscape changes dramatically, the wind disappears and you’re walking through a different world. Jub had told me rain was forecast for the afternoon, so after stopping for lunch in a somewhat sheltered place, I really strode it out to try to get to camp before the rain. I was averaging 5kms/hr which feels pretty fast with 18kgs on your back. Back out on another plain and l could see the rain in the distance. I had my fingers crossed and was walking as fast as l could to outpace it. Then l came off the plain and the rain still seemed to be looking for me. Then before l knew it, I came across a random toilet in the middle of nowhere and the Jubbie-mobile in the background. He’d made a clever camp complete with windbreak and shelter using a tarp, ropes, sticks and his car boot. So happy to see him again! And so cold! It was 3 degrees and blowy. Luckily l had an extra puffer jacket in the car – first time I’ve worn merino layer, two puffers and a wind jacket! After a cup of tea and some chocolate, we went for a walk down the road to see where my track would go from here. We almost got to it but the wind and rain defeated us and we headed back to get warm. The weather forecast thanks to my GPS told me in no uncertain terms that tomorrow should be a rest day. Top of 4, low of 1 with 60% chance of snow. So tomorrow we’re going to look for a shower and do some exploring together before l head off again the next day.

Chef Jublé made a welcome guest appearance this evening. And we even saw a lonely brumby walk past our camp. We tucked ourselves into our nests early. It was so cold overnight. I was wearing two pairs of woolen socks, woolen long johns, wind pants, a merino top, two puffer jackets, a beanie and the hood of one of my puffer jackets all inside my inner liner and sleeping bag. There were times l felt on the verge of cold but was ok. It rained all night and l was super glad to be with Jubble on such a cold, rainy night.